Day 2: Kigali Genocide Memorial & Murindi Cooperative

Wednesday, July 31st - Kigali, Rwanda

Kigali Genocide Memorial - Written by Heather Williams, World Dancer:

We started out the morning of our second day in Rwanda with a visit to the Kigali Genocide Memorial. As we pulled up to the gates, we could see the memorial surrounded by beautiful gardens and green trees, with a view of the city in the distance. It was enough to take my breath away, and I barely could breathe throughout the entire museum.

The first part of the museum tour explained the roots of the genocide, which were first laid 200 years ago during Rwanda's colonization by first Germany then Belgium. It was incredibly eye-opening, because we have a tendency to think that genocides and other atrocities happen suddenly out of nowhere, but in actuality the rifts that lead to conflict are built long before conflict ever occurs.

Then the museum exhibit went into the details of the genocide itself. There were many many graphic images of death and mutilation. They were upsetting to see, but that's because people should be upset about it. I think it is important to stare atrocity in the face and be able to name it for what it is, so we can all learn from it.

The most upsetting and, in my eyes, most important part of the exhibit was the Children's Room, which had large pictures of just a few of the countless children killed in the genocide. Each photo was accompanied by a few facts about the child, such as their name, age, favorite food, favorite hobby, and how they were killed. This room had such an impact on me...mourning the loss of life and innocence, but also mourning the loss of potential. These children were only just beginning to blossom. They would have been the future of Rwanda: future doctors, teachers, parents, presidents. How can a country survive when it's future has been exterminated? But Rwanda has survived, in part because the children who are still here carry within them the legacy of those who are not.

Our final and most powerful moment at the Genocide Memorial did not occur within the museum itself, but outside as we were getting ready to leave. We were sitting on benches, waiting for the whole group to assemble, discussing what we had just seen and learned, when an older Rwandan woman silently walked up to each and every one of us, and gave us a somber hug. It was clear that she held within her such pain, but her eyes shone with gratitude to all of us for just being there, bearing witness and understanding their tragedy.

It's almost indescribable, the power and connection of that moment. It truly summed up the entire purpose of our visit to the genocide museum: to learn, to understand, and to move forward into the future with love and forgiveness.

~

Murindi Cooperative - Written by Michelle Pasini, WD4H Board Member:

After visiting the Genocide Museum, we traveled to a small village in the outskirts of Kigali to meet the Murindi Cooperative. The co-op is made up of Genocide Survivors and widows, who experienced the unimaginable atrocities that we read about in the museum just hours before. 

We greeted the women with scarves donated from our supporters from home and they greeted us with warm hugs. We were led into a small room where they insisted that we sit on the benches and chairs while they sat on a mat on the floor. Their president, Ann Marie, eloquently described the hopelessness they felt after the tragedy they experienced in 1994 as context for the measurable advances they have since made as a cooperative. The solemn looks on the faces of these regal, stoic women as they listened in agreement, conveyed a history of hardship. Yet, like the two co-ops we visited yesterday, they are focused on the future and are grateful for where they stand as a community today. 

They expressed tremendous gratitude to WD4H, Justin, and the team for supporting the co-op with the gifts of cows, health insurance cards, school sponsorship for their children, and supplies to start what has become a successful sewing business. 

Many high school and college students were there to receive letters and pictures from their sponsors. I must say, this was the absolute highlight for me as my student, Ezra, was among those present. A determined, well-spoken, student with a million dollar smile, Ezra is completing his 6th year in high school and would like to pursue a career in hotel management. Having written to each other over the past two years, he seemed almost as delighted to meet me as I was to meet him. His excellent English made it easy for us to have meaningful conversation all afternoon.  Student sponsorships are a very big deal for these co-op members as it makes the seemingly impossible, possible through higher education. The fact that someone else is helping pay for their education makes them strive to do their very best and they clearly do not take the opportunity for granted. Academics are supplemented with Justin's annual Student Leadership Training, sponsored by WD4H donors. All the students exhibited confidence and poise as they proudly shared their ambitions. The letter presentation was followed by awards for top performing students and a touching poem and song written by Junior (sponsored by Juanita & Hymon Johnson), just for us. An impressive group of future leaders of Murindi! Our own WD4H intern, Grant Beall, who was recently accepted to the University of California Santa Barbara, shared his own moving and inspirational story in what could have been a TED talk. Born with a rare blood disease called neutropenia, that has landed him in the hospital many times over the course of his life. He developed a flesh-eating bacteria at the age of 5 which led to gangrene and total amputation of his right leg at the hip. He explained how he withdrew as a teenager and battled serious bouts of depression, frustrated that he could not do all the things his peers and older brothers could do. But he was able to turn his life around through intense self-reflection and discovering who he was and wanted to be. He now swims, plays waterpolo, skis, surfs, and rock climbs. His message of finding yourself and realizing your dreams clearly resonated with the students and had many of us wiping away tears. (Do not be surprised to find Grant as a world class motivational speaker in the future!) The celebration continued with the naming of two new calves. The mama cows, Frankie (donated by the San Diego World Dancers) and Kailey (donated by Pat Beals), were in the pens behind us, keeping us company throughout our gathering. The calves were brought out from the backyard for the little ceremony, and their names were...Max (Frankie's calf) and Molly (Kailey's calf)! These two young beauties will grow up to be strong, productive members of this community, especially when it comes to keeping the children healthy with milk, and producing fertilizer for crops. Before heading to see Murindi's new sewing business, the co-op members treated us to refreshments and surprised us with gifts of beautiful fabrics as a token of their love and appreciation. A most-unique and special souvenir!  Little did they know what was about to happen as a result of this kind gesture. They showed us the nearby room where they make the magic happen on 8 treadle sewing machines, funded by P&G Alumni Foundation grant, and 2 electric ones donate by last-year’s traveler, Naima Sudjian-Carlise. Somewhat timidly, they indicated that they could turn our fabric into custom dresses, shirts or bags, and had Nicole and Judy model a few styles. Say no more! Our excited travel group rushed in to place their orders and take measurements. The sewing business books will unquestionably show a spike in July sales! Meanwhile outside, a street dance party broke out. Our Queen dances turned into a group Macarena, and Janet’s favorite, a partner dance called Chaos (self-explanatory). Everyone in the neighborhood came to watch and share in the celebration. We taught them our dances and they taught us theirs. We all sang Tuzarwubaka ("We Will Rebuild Rwanda") at the top of our lungs. (My student Ezra was most impressed that I knew the words.) Led by the students, Dany, and Judy, traditional call-response songs were sung well into the afternoon sun. Dozens of children sang and danced along. It was pure joy that lasted for hours. 

It was truly heartbreaking to leave but the time had come. A final wave to Ezra, and I know I must come back.  I didn’t think we could top the experience we had yesterday but remarkably, I think we did. For me, getting to sing, dance, laugh, and celebrate with my student, made this a day I will cherish forever!

Thoughts from some of the travelers:

Jayne Johann: There isn’t an emotion that I didn’t feel today.  Comfort - laying in my clean bed watching the sun rise.  Fear - that I might not feel well enough today to see our friends in Murindi co op. Lucky - that I have resources to help me feel better.  Grief - at the atrocities displayed in the Genocide museum. Anger - that such things could possibly happen.  Overwhelmed - by the Rwandans’ courage to move forward. Love - for the people of Murindi, my travel-mates, and our Rwandan friends who make it all possible. Oddly, - envy, for only worrying about important things, like having water to drink and food for your kids.  Inspiration - from the students who are dedicated to raising their villages out of poverty, and humbled - by our co-traveler who has overcome more challenges in his young years than most people do in a life time.   But most of all, joy.   Pure joy.  

Erin Parks: As soon as I came off the bus, I saw a petite teenage girl with the most soulful eyes.  Upon meeting we became immediate friends.  Fortuitously, I had grabbed a scarf  from the bag that I had donated.  I believe it was a scarf that I had been given by my mother.  I put it around her neck and we exchanged warm hugs.  I said “Hello, my name is Erin”in Rwandan and she replied in almost a whisper, “I am Vanessa” in English.  We giggled.  Throughout the gathering we shared smiles.  The cooperative then presented each of us with gifts of gorgeous fabric.  Vanessa gave me my bolt of fabric with a hug. It was exactly what I wanted.  Then the cooperative gave us Fanta and Vanessa asked me what flavor I would like.  I asked her which flavor she preferred.  She pointed to the lemonade flavor and I nodded, smiles and brought it to me.  So kind and thoughtful.  During the student presentation, she spoke in such a soft voice, I put my hand to my ear and she spoke loud and clear.  I later learned that she had lost her mother in the recent past but she and her family were doing very well. My brief but REAL loving connection with Vanessa was an extraordinary gift for which I will always be grateful.